Magic ring 6, 7 or 8? How the first round shapes your amigurumi
How the number of stitches in the first round changes how a piece grows, why circles turn into hexagons, and how staggered increases fix it.
Nearly every amigurumi pattern starts with "MR 6", and it is easy to assume six is a rule. It isn't. It is simply the number that keeps single crochet lying flat. Knowing why lets you understand patterns that start differently and change a shape on purpose.
Why six?
A flat circle grows in circumference by about 2π — a little over 6 — times the height of each new round. Single crochet stitches are roughly as tall as they are wide, so each new round needs about six more stitches than the last to stay flat. That gives the familiar sequence 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36… with six increases in every round.
Taller stitches need more. That's why flat circles in half double crochet usually start with 8 and add 8 per round, and circles in double crochet start with 12 and add 12.
What changes if you start with more or fewer
| Start | Increases per round | What you get in single crochet |
|---|---|---|
| MR 4 or 5 | 4 or 5 | grows slowly and cups early; good for narrow tips, beaks and fingers |
| MR 6 | 6 | the standard: flat at first, then a smooth dome |
| MR 7 | 7 | slightly wider, flatter base; useful for odd-numbered colour patterns |
| MR 8 | 8 | grows fast and ruffles if kept flat; good for wide flat bases and bowls |
In amigurumi the base is meant to curve, so the "flat" number is just a starting point. Patterns stop increasing at the width they need and then work plain rounds, which turns the flat disc into the side of a ball or cylinder.
Why your circle looks like a hexagon
If every increase sits directly above the one in the round below — which is what happens when you work (sc, inc) x6, (2 sc, inc) x6, (3 sc, inc) x6 exactly as written — the increases stack into six lines. Those lines become six corners, and a ball comes out slightly hexagonal. It's more visible with thicker yarn and bigger pieces.
The fix is to stagger the increases: move the starting point of the repeat on alternate rounds so the increases don't line up. For example:
R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)R5: sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc (30)
Round 5 still has six increases and still makes 30, but the increases sit halfway between the ones below. StitchCheck's shape builder has a "stagger increases" option that does this for you, and the checker understands staggered rounds just like plain ones.
Magic ring or chain start?
A magic ring (also called a magic circle or adjustable ring) is a loop of yarn you can pull completely closed, leaving no hole at the top of the head or the tip of a nose. The alternative is ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. It is easier to learn but always leaves a small hole, which can show stuffing in a light-coloured piece.
If you struggle with the magic ring, work your first round, then before going on, weave the tail through the base of the six stitches and pull it like a drawstring. You get the same closed centre.
Shapes from the first rounds
How fast you increase decides the shape, not just the size:
- Increase every round (6 per round) and you get a flat disc, then a dome — the start of a ball or a head.
- Increase every other round and you get a gentle point — a cone, a carrot, a horn.
- Increase by 3 per round from MR 3 or MR 6 and you get a narrow, steep cone.
- Don't increase at all after round 1 or 2 and you get a thin tube — an arm, a tail, a stem.
Open this short pattern to compare a fast start and a slow one in the 3D preview. The first part is a dome, then the increases slow down and the shape becomes cone-like.
R1: MR 6 (6) R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18) R4: sc around (18) R5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24) R6-7: sc around (24) R8: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30) R9-11: sc around (30)
Rule of thumb
Use MR 6 unless you have a reason not to. Reach for fewer stitches when you want a point, more when you want a wide, flat base, and stagger your increases on anything bigger than about 30 stitches if you want it truly round.